Evening All, Bike is starting to do my head in now...... had numerous issues with battery not charging which I've sorted about 4 months ago by replacing Stator, Rectifier and Battery at the same time. all has been ok since then and charging fine and now one of them or some of them have gone again. Bought a battery today as i was stranded that got me most of the way home and then bike died (nice long push home !) any ideas or reasons why these bike have these issues as i can't keep replacing this parts every 3 or 4 months. What causes these parts to deteriorate !? Cheers Chris
What bike mate? What did you replace? After market standard or what. What did you replace with? After market standard or what. Have you checked the loom at all and when?
Daytona 600 - 2004 Replaced - Stator OEM Replaced Rectifier - Mosfet Replaced battery - Halfords wiring was all ok and original when i changed all parts over all had good readings on the multimeter and charging correct.
No worries mate, was surprised i got a reply as always very quiet in the daytona section these days lol
Try checking all your earthing points It’s a right royal pain I know but nothing works as it should unless it’s got good earthing Had a Kawasaki GT750 once that was always playing up electrically Could never get to the bottom of it after replacing various parts and still intermittent problems charging/lights/cutting out etc So spent one day cleaning every earthing point I could find Dunno which one cured it and didn’t care either but it never missed a beat after that
Cheers mate, ill have to start stripping it all down and give it a go. any idea if their would be a diagram for earning points ?
Well these problems tend to be generic to anything with an internal combustion engine! Returning to first principles so we don’t bark up the wrong tree...... Have you tested alternator output? Do you get a charge at the battery? Something like 13v rising to nearly 14v if the throttle is blipped. Is the battery discharged or defective? A healthy reading of 12.7v or so can deceive. It needs a load test to check amperage rather than voltage. Your local garage should oblige, often for no charge. It is 10 second hook up. Because.......if the battery is fine you may have a new ignition gremlin. Can you confirm what you have ruled out?
There will be mate but I haven’t got one Try google Corrosion is your enemy And wiggly amps is the work of the devil
I think most modern Triumphs run earths back to the battery terminal in the harness with one single strap run to an engine stud on the rear underside of the motor. Loosen, wiggle, squirt in silicone (dielectric) grease and re-tighten. Similarly iffy connections between healthy RR and alternator can make you replace good kit.
Thanks for all the replies, im going to strip down and check today, i will let you know my findings !
Hi, you may well have come across this in your seatches, but just in case. https://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tr...ctifier-regulator-upgrade.html#/topics/104504 There is a lot of good info here. I have a problem with my 2006 955 fuse and wiring overheating. A lot of people suggest to bypass the standard wiring. I have just ordered replacement electric regulator rectifier from wemoto which connects directly to the battery. Hope to get it fitted this weekend. I'll let you know if it solves the overheating problem. Good luck
Jay, don't know if you've read my thread on the charging issues I've had on my TT? MOSFET rectifier came from M&P and the the stator too. Only been a short time but they seem to be working okay.
If the stator does need rewinding try giving these people a ring westcountrywindings.co.uk they are in Harlow quick turn round reasonably priced and have been very reliable when I have used them in the past.I have used electrex but I found the quality poor and failed after a few months.
I agree with checking the grounds and testing for voltage at and to the battery. For what it's worth, I would also check the wiring that you 'touched' when you replaced the above parts. It's possible that something is pinched, or chaffed and causing the system to short. I'm not really familiar with the Daytona, so forgive me if the following is wrong. If you have an ECU, have you tried plugging in a code reader to see if there are any error messages? If there are, that should narrow things down pretty fast. Something like TuneECU.
