There’s A First Time For Everything.

Alright !
There’s a first time for everything.
Bike won’t start.

Turn the key: battery’s working. Lights on as normal.

Clutch+start : repetitive « clank » sound from the engine, no ignition, engine lights shuts off...

Suggestions ?

 

Battery

 

Hi Billy, if you can, the first thing I would do is get some 'jump' leads and connect the bike to a known good battery.

If the bike then starts OK you know it's the bike battery that is weak. It might improve with an overnight charge or it might be that it's dead and needs replacement.

Good luck

Dave

 

Well well well
And I thought you had the magical French touch

Check your FUSES

 

Battery, if you can connect a charger then start it.
The charger will give you enough to start the bike but you will need to either go for a long run or charge the battery.
I have two batteries one in the house fully charged so it’s just a case of swapping them over.
I do too many short runs and have an alarm on mine.
The cold weather runs the battery down.
The best option would be an optimiser if you can attach it.
Not sure but I think like me you have to park in the street so the two batteries option might be better

 

Nah he’s quite safe Sam doesn’t Rev the nuts off it or get pissed enough for some one to nick his main fuse whilst he’s standing next to it

 

Fault - I'm with the others on this - Battery
Suggestion - CALL DAN

 

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintan battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoidcontacts.

------------------

 

What's your point then Sprinter lol

 

Battery?

 

Good gracious, you're a serious contender if they ever make 'RainMan 2'.

 

It is not strictly true that cold weather runs a battery down. The essential chemical reaction works less well in cold temperatures (but they hate extreme heat even more). A cold battery throws out less amps (a bit like electrical torque) in cold weather than the same battery in the same state of charge 15 degrees warmer. Us oldies tend to forget modern cars and bikes with accessories like clocks, alarms, illuminated keyholes etc., are all gently discharging the battery when the engine is not running and canbus systems can be sensitive to voltage drops. A smart charger is a smart choice for the occasional use vehicle and pays for itself in batteries and tears of frustration.

 

Morning guys !
First above all, thanks for everything !
I will check the battery indeed, see how I can fix tjat, and then check the fuse.

I just KNEW the french touch was going to be adressed ! Hahaha, you didn’t fail me there Diligaf ! It has been severely cold these last mornings, and then again, i haven’t been riding much lately....

Thanks again ! More updates soon !

 

I'd be round with a charger if my bloody bike would start

 

The race is on between you and Dan
Who's gonna be the one with the smug grin outside the others house whilst revving their fixed bike

 

You have to face it Dan, our mutual motorcycle present and past history is linked in a very strange way ...

 

Dan, definitely Dan

 

Agree with that Sam but lets face it your friendship with Dan is perfect and works very much in every way - But your bikes dont - lol

 

Cruel cruel but true.
Sam try bumping it.
All you need is to get it to turn over. Young fit lad such as you should be able to get it going that way.

 

It’s seems a bit strange that the pair of you end up with knackered bikes displaying similar symptoms at the same time.
What were you boys up to?